An Odyssey of Rediscovery: America, 2002  
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  ::The Odyssey, Part 10 ::
    (July 28, 2002; Mile 8,460)

As Garrison Keillor might say, it’s been a quiet week at Lake Silverton Shores. The lake—more of a pond, really, but once again I won’t quibble—adjoins the property of my friends Eva LaBarge and Eddie Renner, who have spent the last 10 days loving me to death and treating me like a queen. (Talk about comfort being the wanderer’s danger!) The week was blissfully quiet in the sense that I wasn’t going anywhere and could both relax and get some work done. But that doesn’t mean that nothing happened: Like Keillor’s “News from Lake Woebegon,” my update is full of interesting experiences great and small.
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 :: Sunning At Lake Tahoe ::

We spent the afternoon of Saturday, the 20th, at Lake Tahoe’s Meeks Bay. The day was beautiful—hot and sunny, but with a refreshing breeze—and the scenery was stunning. The crystalline, aqua-colored lake is surrounded by conifer-covered mountain peaks, and there is no such thing as a bad view. Water temperatures, however, are chilly: In late July, the snowmelt-fed lake was no warmer than the mid 60s (it virtually never rises above 70 degrees F.). Thin-blooded semi-Southerner that I have become, I found the water too cold to swim in; but it was a great pick-me-up after baking in the sun.

On our way back to a Reno coffeehouse, we stopped at the Tahoe home of one of Eva’s co-workers, Doreen Begley. She and her husband Brent live in Reno but escape to the Tahoe place on weekends, and I could see why—it was an incredibly soothing little mountain house. I knew I was in California when we went out to the backyard and found a tiny, Zen-like tree-and-rock garden graced by small statues of Mickey Mouse, Buddha, and St. Francis of Assisi. The couple certainly deserves to relax, though. Doreen spent most of her nursing career in some of the busiest emergency rooms on the West Coast, and has been with the Nevada Hospital Association for only a year or so. Brent is a lawyer-mediator. I liked them both immediately, and since we had to dash off far too quickly, we invited them over for dinner on Monday night. view photo

 :: Double the Talent ::

We were going to the coffeehouse open-mic night to hear Josh and Jake Charlebois, 20-something twins who are superb musicians. Josh is another of Eva’s co-workers, and early on he shared my book synopsis with his father, a member of the National Writers’ Project. Dave Charlebois had become one of my biggest supporters, and I was dying to meet him—but it was not to be. He was off to the Sierras for a weekend of hiking with a friend, so we had to settle for a brief phone conversation. One of these days we will meet; but that evening I had the great pleasure of making the acquaintance of his wife, sons, and future daughters-in-law.

Josh and Jake are not only great performers, but they also write great songs. If they don’t land a recording contract one of these days, there is truly no justice in the world. I look forward to being able to say I knew them before they were famous. view photo

 :: Good Food, Good Company ::

Sunday evening Eva, Eddie, and I feasted on six of the biggest, sweetest Dungeness crabs any of us had ever had, and Monday evening I cooked a big Italian meal for them and Doreen and Brent. (In the past two months I hadn’t made anything more complicated than what I could prepare on my one-burner propane stove, and I was itching to cook up a storm. So it was love at first sight when I entered the large, efficient kitchen in my friends’ new house; I knew I would enjoy cooking in it. “Someone should!,” said Eva.)

Doreen kept us in stitches with funny ER war stories, such as the tale of the couple who crashed while doing things they shouldn’t have been doing in a moving vehicle. Doreen said she asked the other nurse as they started working on them if she didn’t notice something odd—they hadn’t even had to strip them. “We always did it without even thinking, so we almost didn’t notice that they came in naked,” she said, mischievously telling Eddie she could strip him in 12 seconds flat. She is a dynamo, and it was easy to imagine her taking charge in an emergency room. view photo

 :: The New Tool/Toy ::

There were other memorable feasts: the seafood dish Eva brought home for me one night when I decided I really ought to keep working; the sushi on the beach; the family-style meal we had in a Basque restaurant. Believe it or not, though, we did do something other than eat. The biggest—or at least most expensive—thing I did was buy a new laptop. The old one had been giving me some scares, and it seemed wise to replace it while I was in Reno. You see, Eddie was my technological ace in the hole. He’s a boyish 35-year-old techno-geek who does things for the software company Intuit that I couldn’t even imagine; the house is wired in every possible way and full of electronic and digital toys. He’s also an all-around great guy (all of Eva’s women friends want to clone him), so I knew he would help me. Actually, he did everything that needed to be done—all I did was supply the credit card.

The night I got the Toshiba Satellite, Eddie tested it with a DVD of the 2002 World Cup soccer match in which the U.S. upset Portugal. The June match had started at 4:30 AM Reno time, so Ed used his Tivo® digital video recorder to download it from a satellite and burn it onto a DVD while he and Eva slept. Now we were playing that DVD on my new laptop (on battery power) as we ate dinner on the patio and gazed at the sunset. It was just like watching the match on TV—the resolution and picture quality were that good—and it ended before the battery ran out of juice. The three of us marveled at the fact that we had the world at our fingertips, and we had it at a price we generally could afford. You didn’t have to have Bill Gates’ monopoly or millions to enjoy these technological advances. And, of course, the technicolor sunset was free. view photo

 

 ::Techno Ecstasy, Techno Agony ::

My experiment with technology on this trip has played out like a passionate love affair: highs and lows, ecstasy and agony. The cell phone has kept me in touch with family and friends all over the country—but it’s only had a signal about half of the time, and I’ve nearly always been out of touch in the remote areas where I’m happiest but theoretically most in need of a lifeline. (Thank God there have been no emergencies, and God willing there won’t be.) The old laptop has annoyed and alarmed me to no end—but at the ripe old age of six, it is downright ancient now and deserves to go to the great network in the sky. I’ve been able to pay all of my bills but one online, but the credit-card Website is painfully slow and I’ve sometimes had trouble printing my statements. And so it goes. Like just about everything else in life, technology can be both a blessing and a curse.

Which brings me to Uli’s warranty and service contract. I said last week that I continue to refuse to schedule the Odyssey, but I don’t think there’s any getting around scheduling Uli’s 20K check-up. A little over a week before I landed in Reno, I called the local dealership in the hope that I could have him serviced while I was here—he’s coming up on 19K and missed the 15K oil change because we were on the road, so this one is important. (Not to mention that I want to be completely ready for the long stretches of open space on the northern plains.) However, the dealership was booked through the end of the month and couldn’t squeeze me in. So now I’ve got to find another dealership in the Pacific Northwest, book a date, and put myself on a rough schedule that will get me there on time but not rush me too badly or keep me sitting around eating up time and money. You can dance to a different tune, but you’ve always got to pay the piper one way or another. view photo

 :: The Bard On the Beach ::

This past Saturday night (the 27th), Eva, Eddie, and I went back to Lake Tahoe, but this time to Sand Harbor for Shakespeare rather than to Meeks Bay for sun. The bard knew quite a bit about paying the piper, and his glorious works remind us that the essentials of the human condition are unchanging and there is nothing new under the sun. So although I was sitting on a blanket on the beach rather than in the Globe Theatre and I was watching a “Taming of the Shrew” set in Trinidad with a Jimmy Buffett-like manservant and contemporary allusions, it was all the same. The play’s the thing, indeed, and this one was very well played.

“Taming” has always been one of my favorite of Shakespeare’s works; considering that the whole man-mastering-woman thing makes me crazy, people who know me might find that odd. But I suppose the play appeals to me because it’s about people realizing that things aren’t always as they seem but a price always must be paid, and because Kate doesn’t surrender anything of true importance and Petruccio comes to appreciate the fact that she’s more than a dowry. Both learn, I think, that the other is really his or her perfect match.

Shakespeare and sunsets are the perfect inoculation against the kind of hubris that builds Towers of Babel: Technology—like life and love—is what we make of it, and nothing more or less. It’s good to think about that every now and then.

Stay tuned for next week’s installment. . . .
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